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90 Blood Elf Rogue
Just to add a bit of information about the writing pens mentioned in the above post, the metal dip pen tips are called nibs. The nibs come in a variety of sizes and shapes, based on what the writer or artist wants to do. For heavier lines, a more robust nib with a flat tip will be used. This is also a type used in calligraphy, as the angle of the nib can be altered in order to change the weight (thickness) of the line.
Thanks for picking up on this. I ran out of room, and I didn't want to post AGAIN right away, since I'd already made, what, three or four posts almost in a row?
Eldevane: I know this isn't RP related, necessarily, but where can I get an arm guard that fits me properly?? They're never long enough (I'm 6 feet tall in RL, and it shows in my limbs too), so I've been just dealing without one, and I know that's not smart in the long run. If I have to special order it, where would I do that? (I've been out of the archery loop for a bit, and I want to get back into it.)
79 Undead Mage
Lovely thread. I especially loved watching the debate about archery- what a lot to learn from that.
I'd also like to add to the statement about the notorious 'boobplate' for women: don't do it unless you are begging for injury. Women should wear the same contoured breastplate as men do with no 'feminine' definition. To put it in simple terms, by creating those breast-shaped contours you're guiding any blade or weapon towards the center of your chest with certain strikes. This is bad for business, obviously.
Hey, something I actually know a little bit about.
First I would like to direct your attention to the wiki article which is pretty comprehensive in general: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flintlock
Know a flintlock from a wheellock, etc. Also, if you really want to buff up your gun knowledge, I would start off by researching into an arquebus. While not a flintlock, I feel personally there's a lot to learn from this design as it preceded many others to follow. Kind of like looking into a gun's ancestry. If you also wanted to make the guns more 'fair' to the setting when considering they're competing against archers, swordsmen, and the like an Arquebus is an older model that could promote that. A flintlock would however be far more sophisticated.
1) Guns are actually fragile pieces of equipment. When you see in the movies where Macho Man is busting faces in with the butt of his gun? Especially on an older model (which is what a flintlock would be) this is a TERRIBLE idea if you plan to shoot it afterwards. You're begging for it to not fire, or worse. Misfire. This actually applies to bayonet style guns as well. Using it as a blunt/stabbing weapon should always be a LAST resort, and when it comes to it, you should be reluctant to fire it afterwards. Bayonets are not that strong, as far as I can recall- effective, but the fact they have a blade should not make one assume they can be used for that purpose routinely and effectively.
2) Most guns, especially a flintlock style gun, is extremely susceptible to moisture. You're not going to be firing that gun while out in the rain- it won't fire unless you are taking shelter under something to keep the moisture away. Likewise, if someone splashes mud or water onto your gun, you're better off just tossing it aside and going to old fashioned fisticuffs.
3) And I thought it could penetrate armor- and looked it up and seems it can. However, due to the nature of how much these things love to misfire, a flintlock gun was best against plate armor (if I understand correctly) when there were volleys firing at once. One on one? The odds might still be against you somewhat in terms of aim and conditions. For the sake of roleplay, I would try to keep in mind that no one enjoys a person 'sniping' at their character and there should always be opportunity for ample exchange, even if the odds with your weapon succeeding are in vast favor situationally.
Guns can be a very sore topic in a setting that mixes them with armor, swords, and the like. So always keep fair-exchange in mind. It was actually the development of flintlocks that helped put plate out of business, so let's not put those RPers who chose that method 'out of business' as well. I'd suggest keeping your gun usage modest in RP to create a more dynamic setting.
Edited: just some clean up and more info.
Edited by Blaulynn on 7/8/2012 10:08 AM PDT
Measure half the distance from your wrist to your elbow, then add a couple inches. That's about how long it should be. Some people wear smaller ones but after seeing what happened to my husband call me paranoid but I advocate something that will actually protect you from a splintered or broken arrow. ;) Most are carbon these days and that stuff's nasty when it breaks.
I know that Cabelas sells them in varying sizes, but you might have to order it online if you don't have one nearby. You can also try Black Sheep. I've had bad experiences with Wal Mart and Sportsman's Warehouse/Wholesale Sports, you should probably avoid them.
Edited by Eldevane on 7/10/2012 11:23 AM PDT
OMG I love you for starting this thread! It would be great if we could break this down into guides - like one for armor, one for weapons, one for fighting, one for blacksmithing, one for herbs, etc - so I could find what I needed easily. I love to write fanfiction but I'm often awkward with all the battles.
Edited by Lilfeathers on 7/15/2012 2:18 PM PDT
Pipe smoking! The number one tip with is: take, your, time. This is not a speedy activity. I can, if I care to pre-pack, whip out a pipe and fire up with my cig friends, but in general it takes time to:
1) Pack. You want to loosely fill the bowl of the pipe and then press down on the contents until you achieve a pack that is "springy". A large bowl can take many trips from your tobacco pouch to the pipe, but even a small bowl will take at least two.
2) Charring light. This is the first light and emits the most smoke. The idea is to obtain an even char across the bowl of the pipe. Larger bowls, and more inexperienced smokers, may take several charring lights before the surface has been covered once and is ready to be tamped. The most puffing is done here.
3) Tamping. For those of high tolerance and thick callouses (I'm thinking of you, Dad), the thumb can be used; for the rest of us - we will carry a tamper to lightly push down on the tobacco. Most tampers will not only have a flat, circular, tamping surface at the end; but will also have a blunt "pick" that swings out of the body of the tamper for when you are finished smoking and wish to remove all the tobacco from the bowl.
4) Now you are actually ready to smoke! A skilled smoker with properly humidified tobacco and a well caked briar can smoke the entirety of the bowl on this one light! Most of us, far from home, sitting propped up against the wall in some dungeon somewhere will not have this luxury - so we will be re-lighting at regular intervals.
5) You're done! Now you need to empty the pipe. Leaving un-smoked or the remains of a smoke in the bowl will ruin the pipe. If it's a rough cut pipe, knock it out on your boot heel and then use your pick to remove any remaining dregs. If it's a finished cut, or you don't care, use the pick for all of it.
The opportunities for RP when you smoke are many. It's an art form as much as a tobacco delivery method.
There's the pipe: Briar, other woods, meerschaum, clay and fiber. Briar is best for travel, the others being either too delicate or disposable. For example, the long stems of the churchwarden was perfect when produced in clay for taverns. Each new smoker would just snap off the previously used end and enjoy a good smoke, leaving it for the next. When the stem was too short for a cool smoke, the pipe was disposed of. Meerschaum, unless you wish to sully it, needs gloves to handle so that the oils from your hands won't interfere with the even staining process (modern meerschaums often come with a coating so that you do not need gloves).
There's the tobacco: There are different cuts and additives, but unless you are really into it, there is no reason to RP it. What there is a reason to RP is if your tobacco is dry or wet. Dry makes a _huge_ difference in the quality of the smoke. Dry tobacco will burn hot and quick, something that could be RP'd. Wet (over moist – not literally doused) tobacco is the opposite nightmare of getting it to draw (pull the smoke down through the bowl and up the stem) properly and stay lit. Wet tobacco, or a wet smoker, will literally “gurgle” after a time as the fluid builds up at the bottom of the bowl. If you are a wet smoker, you can place small balls of clay in the bowl before adding tobacco so that the moisture is absorbed. Without it, you need pipe cleaners.
A word on pipe cleaners: they stink! A practiced smoker will toss theirs in the fire after using them.
>conclusion next post
So. Here's your “kit”: Pipe and padded case for it. Matches or a lighter of some sort. Tamper w/pick, or separate. Tobacco and pouch; waterproof. Moisture pouch button – a small, encased disk of a material that will slowly evaporate the water you've soaked it in; keeps the tobacco from going dry in the pouch. Pipe cleaners. Clay balls if you're a wet smoker. A pipe jack if your pipe model won't stand up on it's own. A loaner pipe for when a companion has broken theirs, if you are the friendly type.
Optional, but recommended if on the road: Wind cap – air permeable cover for the pipe – metal so that you can re-light the pipe w/out removal. You will not be smoking in a wind w/out it unless you want to burn a hole in your pipe or your mouth. Travel cap – cover for your pipe for those times when you will resume smoking in a moment or you've pre-packed your pipe. Also for dress pipes, you don't want ashes in the pocket of your fine jacket or your lovely dress.
Mossclaw can often be found sipping the smoke from her pipe as she waits for various ships to carry her hither and yon. Many opportunities for RP include, but are not limited to:
Having the smoke from the charring light inundate your fellows due to a quick shift in the wind.
Fiddling with your pipe during negotiations while others are dying to know what you think.
Fiddling with your pipe while waiting for someone to let something slip. It's amazing what others will say in an effort to fill a lengthy silence.
The places I have dragged compatriots in order to secure a good tobacco!
The rage upon learning that my pipe-stem has been broken! Elune help whom so ever caused that!
Smoke rings! You couldn't have thought I'd forget that. Delights children of all races and even some adults. :)
That's all off the top of my head. If anyone has any questions, you can find me here as Briarpetal.
Edit: Oh - and of course, the top mistake: Pipe smokers do not inhale the smoke. The smoke is brought into the mouth cavity and savored, then expelled.
Edited by Mossclaw on 7/15/2012 8:37 PM PDT
Somewhere - don't ask me where - I've read that bows were not a particularly good choice for orcs because orcs were too strong and would have broken them. Any truth to that?
I gotz a question. Unfortunately this thread is getting so long that it's hard to read through it and see if anyone's already asked, so I'll post it anyway.
In a story I'm working on, I have two 6-year-old orc boys who are just beginning weapons training. They're all excited to start learning, they've got their wooden axes... now what? What would be their initial lessons in learning to wield an axe?
This looks intriguing:
Oh, oh, there's some stuff I know about!
When you're rooting hair into a hollow doll head, you have three basic options. First, you can thread a few strands of hair through the eye of a needle, push the needle into the doll's head, pull it through the neck, tie a knot in the strands, and then add a dab of quick-drying glue. This method fills the head up quickly and sometimes makes it hard to mount on a body.
Sewing! You can thread hair through the head and loop it under the neck, repeating the process until your doll's head is a giant ball of hair. When you've finished a row (starting with the hairline and working inwards), cut the hair, and trim it into the neck with small, sharp scissors. Repeat until satisfied, then fill the inside of the head with glue.
Punching! Using a tool made from a two-pronged hook that has a 45 degree slant (an embroidery needle with part of the eye clipped with wire cutters and shoved into a dowel works beautifully) and a wooden dowel, you can punch strands of hair into the doll's head. You should use pieces that are twice the length of the desired finished length. The pressure will hold the hair in place, so you don't need glue, but I tend to spread some on the inside when the entire process is finished for extra stability.
When the hair is completely rooted, cut it and style it as you like. You can wrap pieces around pencils or perm rods and use end wraps designed for human hair to reduce ducktailing. If the hair is real, you can gel or spray it as you would human hair. If it's synthetic, dunk the head into boiling water, then remove all the rods. The hair will stay in place. NEVER use a hot curling or straightening iron on a doll, even if the hair is real. You can also tie the hair into rings with scraps and spray it for ringlets.
When you are painting a doll (face, hands, body parts- whatever), you will be using tiny brushes. I know some dollmakers that use a single cat whisker taped to a pencil for eyelashes, for example.
You'll always ALWAYS thin the paint. Never just put complete paint on a doll. The product will be thick and brush strokes will be visible. Sealants will go over the paint, but not on any unpainted surface.
Acetone can be used to remove paint, and toothpicks soaked in acetone are good "erasers" when used carefully.
If you're making the doll from wood or plastics, cut the desired shape out, then sand with finer and finer grit paper until the skin is smooth. You can do this with an already assembled doll to give it a different looking face, like say, to make it look more like a relative or something. I routinely take fashion and baby dolls and cut off pieces of their faces to achieve a new look, for example.
Making doll clothes is nothing like making people clothes. Your patterns have unusual proportions, so scaling people patterns down will not work. You will RARELY be using facing, and if you do use it (for stability), you will likely cut it out when the outfit is hemmed, because it can make the clothes too stiff. Fabrics are always thin; people fabrics rarely work well for dolls.
You can use a dummy body to make armor! You'll cut and shape a piece of felt to the dummy and coat it with glue. Work slowly, layer by layer, and build it up or thin it down (nail files work for thinning) as needed. Make sure the felt is completely dry before adding a new layer. Paint the final product to give it a leathery or metallic look, and transfer it to the doll it's intended for!
The tiny rings used to make chainmail and jewelry for dolls are called "jump rings." You can find them on most jewelry, even for people. Don't use jump rings to make chainmail for people; they're too weak, silly!
You can make a tiny version of anything using all sorts of things you might find just laying around. A pair of clip-on earrings and a small length of copper tube with a fancy bead cap becomes a coffee machine, or a toothpick with a bead on the end becomes a magic wand!
There is no limit to what can be made with a little creativity and a glue stick.
A halter is something placed on a horse's head to lead it around. You attach a lead rope to the halter, this is what you hold on to. There is nothing that goes in the horse's mouth.
When you ride, you have a bridle on the horse most of the time. This has a metal bar that goes through the horse's mouth, and this metal bar is called a bit. Attached to the bit are the reins. These are what you hold onto, either on the ground or up in the saddle.
You should NEVER tie a horse to anything by the reins. Wrap it around something to remind the horse to stay in place, sure, but tie hard? Nope! If the horse spooks and pulls back it can really really hurt itself because of the bit in its mouth.
(For those of you that know better, yes, I am using english tack for my examples. :) Historically english tack and methods of riding were born out military methods, which I think would be most prevailing in Azeroth at the moment)
The saddle is what you sit on. The stirrups are what you put your feet in. The girth is the strap that goes around the horse's barrel(not its belly), just behind the animal's elbows, and keeps the saddle on.
FUN POSSIBLE RP THING: Horses are known for tensing up their muscles around their barrel when you first put the girth on, then relaxing just as you put your foot in the stirrup to mount. This sends the saddle sliding to the side/under the horse and most of the time ends up with the person on harmlessly on their rear ends on the ground. Knowledgeable horse people will check/tighten the girth several times before actually getting into the saddle.
The walk is your slowest gait. It's four beats. You usually sit in the saddle the whole time.
The trot is the next step up from the walk. It's mostly used for easy, long distance riding. It has two beats and is very bumpy. You can either post(stand up and sit down in the saddle in time to the beat of the gait) or sit the trot.
The canter is your third gear. It's three beats and can be held for long distances if the horse is in good shape. It's smoother than the trot, but has a bigger motion to it than the walk. The canter can also be ridden two ways, sitting or standing. Standing is usually saved for long distance riding, sitting for when you need to slow the canter down and get more control(coming up to a jump or going around corners).
The gallop is your last and fastest gait. It's four beats, and the horse stretches out with so much reach that it actually becomes closer to the ground. A horse at a flat-out gallop can actually be up to four inches closer to the ground than when it is at any of the other gaits. It can be held in shorter bursts. Depending on the horse and how fit they are, a quarter mile to up to three if you have an amazing steed. You ride the gallop by standing in the stirrups and crouching down closer to the horse's body.
Foal - Baby horse
Colt - Male baby horse
Filly - Female baby horse
Sire- Horse babydaddy
Dam- Horse mama
Mare- Female horse
Gelding- Castrated male horse
Stallion/Stud- Un-castrated male horse
Horses are measured in Hands. 1 Hand = 4 Inches
Anything under 14.3 hands is a pony.
Anything 14.3 hands or above is a horse.
That's all for now! Hope this helps! :D
Edited by Rhakuel on 8/4/2012 12:42 PM PDT
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