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This is a good place to start:
But basically, each new cut needs to be researched, and it's semi-random. You use 3 uncut rare gems of some color to do the research (on a 24h cooldown), and you learn a cut of that color. There's also apparently a Spirit of Harmony (a new BoP crafting material that drops from all mobs in MoP) version of the research that bypasses the 24h cooldown (this is the general pattern with MoP researches- there's one on a cooldown, and another that has no CD but requires a SoH).
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